Our guest writer, John Ninness, took a short journey with Silversea to Yangon and return aboard the Silver Muse and was pleasantly surprised by the outstanding service and hospitality aboard. John writes…..
There’s a romanticism with ocean cruising that seems to tug at the heart of all of us at one time or another. Ever since I first watched the Titanic movie, there’s been an inward yearning to stand on the bow of a cruise ship like Jack and Rose, feel the wind in my face and the romance of a cruising journey.
Yet like many Australians, who have heard the horrifying cruise tales over the last few years, I have been left with a somewhat tainted view to take a vacation aboard an ocean cruise ship. Until now…
This story begins in the thriving metropolis of Singapore where I boarded as a guest of the Silversea Cruises’ iconic flagship, Silver Muse, headed for a journey up to Yangon in Myanmar and returning to back to Singapore.
As an aside, I think it’s appropriate that I set the context of my travel journeys. Over the last thirty odd year’s of my working life, I’ve had the privilege to stay in some great five star hotels around the world (generally as part of a work assignment where I often failed to venture outside the hotel bounds). Cocooned in a five-star hotel isn’t that much fun for me I might add. The sterility of the food, the beds, the inherent odour of hotel rooms and the windows that don’t open just don’t do it for me anymore. They’re so indistinguishable that sometimes you can forget which city or country you’re in. So you can imagine my hesitation to partake on a cruise on a luxury five-star ship. It turned out I was very wrong…
Boarding Silver Muse in Singapore, I was greeted by some smiling faces (as you would expect on a luxury liner). But there was a sense of honesty and integrity in the staff as I passed through the several checks before boarding. An earthy friendliness that you’d seldom see in a five-star hotel. There was something different…almost like catching up with a distant family that you haven’t seen before. There was a formal familiarity that didn’t make you feel uncomfortable. An instant connection. A connection that would continue throughout the voyage…and even leave me missing some of these fabulous people over the past few weeks as I returned to my normal routine.
The well-appointed luxury suite with its’ private balcony, walk-in closet and every luxury amenity (including a pretty cool range of Bvlgari products, a tantalising chocolate selection, Illy Capsule machine and an excellent Bose Sound System) were consistent with what you could imagine within the expectations of a five-star experience.
The Butler and Room Attendant was not…they were both far beyond my expectations.
Not long after my arrival in the suite, a pleasant gentleman in Butler’s attire knocked graciously at the door. He introduced himself and provided an introduction to the features of the suite in a thoughtful and caring manner.
This guy (Andrew) was apparently a pro butler, and his sense of enthusiasm and graciousness didn’t stop the whole cruise. Yes, that’s right! Silversea Cruises provide full butler service to every suite on the ship for the duration of the journey. Andrew, like many of the other staff aboard Silver Muse, is a significant point of difference for this cruising company. Their attention to every minute detail to assist you in feeling comfortable was nothing less than outstanding.
The staff of Silver Muse became an extension of me as the cruise progressed. They knew my coffee wants and needs…and, of course, they knew which wonderful sweet morsels that I would desire during morning and afternoon tea sessions.
They knew my cocktail preferences in the evening, the choice of drinks as the evening progressed and even down to setting my preferred alarm time on the clock in my suite.
Even the bed turn down was better than my mum used to do as a child. These guys had silver service nailed, and whenever and wherever I went on the ship, I was always greeted with a friendly courteous style that reflected the connection and the integrity of the experience. It never ever stopped over a twelve-day cruise.
Seriously you say, it couldn’t be that good? I have to say that it was better than “that good.” There was not one day passed by when I felt I needed to think about anything (apart from which dining experience to enjoy) aboard Silver Muse…my new big Silver Muse family always had my back.
The ship
Silver Muse accommodates up to 596 guests has a total of 298 suites with most having private balconies that are more than comfortable for some private time during the cruise. The ship doesn’t feel cluttered with people. I discovered that it has one of the largest ratios of space per passenger across the cruise industry worldwide. There always appeared adequate space, whether it was on the pool deck or in one of the many great selections of restaurants.
Silver Muse offers eight different dining experiences to suit your mood and taste including three al-fresco
options for those fine weather days when you don’t feel like indulging in the multiple indoor options.
Across the ship, the selection of food choices is both aesthetically pleasing and the ultimate in gourmet
cuisine. From the simplicity of stone baked Pizza, a Hot Rock steak or salmon selection, Tapas in the Silver Note ( Jazz Style) restaurant/bar, Kaiseki Japanese Teppanyaki, Indochine – an Asian fusion food experience, La Terrazza (Italian) and the magnificent La Dame, a specialist restaurant that offers signature French dishes, the food was always a pleasure…so much a joy that I added a few kgs to the waistline throughout the journey.
If you’re looking for a ship with big crowds, water slides and climbing walls and those big-crane thingies that lift you into the air to see the world from a different view, this isn’t the ship for you.
But if you’re seeking refined tastes, want to enjoy the simple pleasures of outstanding hospitality, food, wine and great company…Silversea’s Silver Muse is a must-add to your holiday wish list.
The journey
I have to admit it that Kipling is one of my favourite writers and if you’re fond of Kipling’s Road to Mandalay, then this could well be the journey for you…of course with a little more creature comforts than those endured by Kipling.
Kipling spent just three days in Burma (Myanmar as its’ now known) on his way from Calcutta to San Francisco, but it left him with a lifetime indelible memories that featured heavily in his works.
My journey was a reverse of Kipling’s, but the imagery from Road to Mandalay was rooted in my soul as we steamed up through the muddy mouth of the Irrawaddy River delta to Yangon the former Rangoon.
Singapore – Kuala Lumpur
My journey began in Singapore, and we cruised up overnight to Port Klang just outside of Kuala Lumpur Malaysia. The disembarkation proved seamless, and we were soon in downtown KL to soak up the sites of the Central Market, Sze Yeh Temple, China town, Petronas twin towers. There was a myriad of tour choices (for as little as USD 69) available including city tours, the Batu Caves, Museums and A Pewter Factory.
I chose to head on downtown to KL and explore the inner-city sites. My selection proved successful (albeit it was sweltering and steamy)
There’s plenty of ways to spend a day in downtown KL even if you’re not taking advantage of the grand tours available.
At 6.00 pm, like clockwork, we were away steaming northward to Georgetown Malaysia. The evening began quietly firstly taking in a show with the Voices of the Silversea chorus. Then up for a few songs in the very respectable Silver Note Jazz bar and then to the Panorama Lounge where you can dance the night away in the disco.
You might even take in a range of the beautiful Champagnes, quality wines and ports that are available complimentary.
It’s worth noting that the ship carries around 10,000 bottles of quality wine from across the world and many fine wines are included in the cost of the journey. Of course, if you’re up for something a little more exclusive such as a Grange Hermitage you’ll be able to find those as well as an additional cost.
After a big night taking in the complimentary cocktails, and an odd Blue Label Scotch, one was a little seedy the next day. I’d met some great friends, but clearly at the expense of my liver.
Kuala Lumpur – Georgetown (Penang)
We docked in George Town Penang right on schedule at 8.00am. George Town tour options included Snake Temples, Walking tracks, Round town Trishaw Rides, Cooking Demonstrations and the Penang Hill and Temple.
Most tour options are <$100USD but check your itinerary. If you book ahead, you may save on a range of on-shore activities.
There’s plenty to do on-ship as well if you’re not inclined to go ashore. The Zagara Health Centre offers excellent massage services. There is a well-appointed gym and some exercise and yoga classes available. The ship also has some activities for single & LGBTI travellers to ensure that you won’t feel isolated on the cruise.
Well after a hard day ashore there’s another hard evening of entertainment, more great wines and cocktails to choose from and soaking up one of the many outstanding restaurants. Take in another show, spend a few hours in the small (but the more than adequate casino) or take in some shopping in the ship’s boutiques.
If you’re a party animal, you can once again dance the night away. The DJ seems to keep going until the last person on the dance floor drops, so if you’re up for a big night, the staff will accommodate you.
Penang – Phuket
After a smooth night’s sailing, the ship arrived in Phuket Thailand on the dot of 8.00am. There was a vast
range of tour options available including taking in a game of golf, cooking or just lounging in the Dusit Thani Laguna Resort. Most tours were once again < $100USD.
I took the Phang Nga Bay option and headed up to James Bond Island and the quaint Muslim Fishing Village of Panyii by speedboat before spending a few hours on a beach for a swim and lunch. For Aussie travellers, beaches in Thailand aren’t what you’re accustomed to back home so don’t have too high expectations. They’re a great spot to cool down after a day on the speedboat before you head back to the luxurious Silver Muse. They’re not Bondi, Whitehaven or the Gold coast so don’t be too disappointed if it isn’t what you have come to expect as world standard beaches.
For some passengers, there is a contrast in the experiences on-board vs the on-shore experience. It is difficult to replicate that onboard experience of the Silversea service mainly when Silversea utilise local tour operators. I’d recommend that you embrace the ashore experiences for what they are: A chance to experience an alternative culture and take in some local sights. The on-shore experience is relatively inexpensive and provides many options for travellers who may experience some mobility issues. Food service for on-shore experiences are simple and represent the cultures in which they are served.
For those wanting a little more of Phuket Thai culture, the ship sailed late in the evening, and many chose to take in the beautiful Siam Niramet Thai performance before the ship set sail at 11.00 pm
Phuket – Yangon
A day and a half at sea was just what I needed after the hustle and bustle of three stops in three days. It presented a chance to unwind, relax and take in some of the ship’s great amenities and activities.
For many, the chance to catch up on a good book in the library, attend some informative enrichment lectures from former diplomat Hugh Neighbour or Medical Expert Dr John Long. The Enrichment lectures provide an opportunity to hear firsthand of the history and culture of the countries that you are visiting.
For those that want to have fun, there’s Bingo, Team Trivia, Galley Tours, Lunchtime Music & Cocktails, Language Classes, Shuffleboard, Arts & Crafts and Yoga just to name a few. Sorry… there’s no rock wall or waterslide, but there are some Blackjack Tournaments, sipping fine champagne by the pool experiences or taking in a spa with your new friends. Sea days are great for meeting new friends and catching up with old ones.
You’ll always enjoy the time to shop for some duty-free Tag Heuer, Hubert gems, Theo Faberge’, Paul & Shark clothing or a range of designer bags and swimwear.
The evening is topped off by a formal night incorporating a Black Tie Captain’s Cocktail reception, another great show by the Voices of the Silversea singers and a night on the Disco floor or taking in the beautiful sea sunsets and breezes as we steamed toward Yangon. It was a perfect setting, smooth seas, excellent food, fine wine and pleasant entertainment. Where else on earth could be so perfect?
Yangon
Indeed, the highlight of the journey for me was the visit to Yangon as Kipling experienced more than a
hundred years ago. Yangon is complex. I described it to a friend as like Thailand thirty years ago, but it’s more than that and difficult to explain in words. It’s a developing city that harks of greater past time, but across its’ horizon, it’s a city of politeness, of optimism and suffering. Something is intriguing of Yangon that I couldn’t quite capture in my few short days.
Yangon was the capital of Myanmar until 2006. Yangon (formerly Rangoon) is Myanmar’s largest city and its commercial centre. It is indeed developing, and full of juxtapositions: new high-rises abut traditional Southeast Asian shop houses while down the street from a frozen yoghurt bar, a sidewalk dentist goes to work.
Yangon’s rich collection of colonial architecture is one of its many drawcards; The Strand and its surrounding side streets look today much as they did at the turn of the century when Yangon—then Rangoon—was under British rule.
Yangon’s most iconic sight is unquestionably the enormous gilded Shwedagon Pagoda, but what makes it worth visiting beyond that is the abundant, vibrant life that spills out of people’s homes and onto the streets. Colourful and chaotic, Yangon is a feast for the senses. Grinning uniformed schoolchildren and preadolescent monks vie for sidewalk space as vendors hawk fried goods and longyi-wearing businessmen go off to work.
On a street of Indian-run paint shop sits the country’s only synagogue, a 19th-century relic; blocks away rise the steeples of St. Mary’s Cathedral, another reminder of the city’s colonial past.
For those on the journey that had previously visited Yangon, many headed inland to Mandalay or off to Bagan to experience the 2000 Buddhist monuments spread of 104 square km dating back to 1091AD.
The country is relatively easy to navigate. English is widely spoken, and the people are delightful and welcoming. Meals are inexpensive, and the beer is pretty good especially on one of Yangon’s Rooftop Bars like Atlas.
I chose to stay in Yangon at the Shangri-La Hotel as the distance between the Port, and the City can be up to two hours due to current roadworks. The Shangri-La is a great central location to explore Yangon’s markets and back streets both day and night. A range of tours delighted many of the ship’s passengers. Meditation experiences, cooking Myanmar cuisines and the High Tea at the Strand hotel are all must do trips while visiting this wonderful city.
Silversea provides passengers with a range of cruises to Myanmar, and we’d recommend that you plan your itinerary well beforehand. I spent three days in the country, and I could have spent many more.
Myanmar is not for every five-star traveller. It’s hot…very hot at times, and it’s a developing nation so take off your traditional thinking hat when you set foot in this country. If you embrace the culture, you’ll walk away with a different view of the world, but it’s important to understand that it’s not everyone’s cup of tea.
For those that don’t mind sweltering and clambering through rough streets to find a treasured building from a past time, you’ll love this city. Silversea also offers a local village experience in a Dala Village for those a little more adventurous, but the activity level is extensive and may not be everyone’s five-star type of journey.
Hopping back on board Silver Muse in Yangon is like coming home after hard day’s work on a farm. A
Deep Sea Detox massage at the Zagara Spa, a swim in the pool and a soak in the hot tub you’ll be ready for some Champagne tasting (taking in some 2009 Dom Perignon, Bollinger Grand Annee Brut 2007, Louis Roederer Cristal brut 2009, Krug Grand Cuvee NV) fine dining, entertainment and probably….a huge sleep as you head for a couple of days at sea on your way down to Langkawi.
Take in a Cabaret show and a Jazz Duo then party on to the wee hours of the morning if you’re so inclined. Many passengers utilised this sea time to experience in-suite dining. The ship offers a 24 hour all round dining menu with some fantastic food options for those that might like a romantic night in.
Yangon- Langkawi
A couple of days at sea on the way down to Langkawi offers that perfect chance to relax and, I assure you, by now you’ll be very relaxed. I took in the daily enrichment lectures, some lunchtime music and cocktails, a session on “wearing pearls” and a fantastic Blues Brother Soul Sister Cabaret by the Voices of Silversea. There was plenty of continuous entertainment every day across the ship, but most passengers enjoyed the opportunity to catch up on relaxing by the pool, taking in a game of bridge or spending time with new friends.
A formal Black Tie formal Evening keeps the passengers and ship feeling like you’re on a high adventure.
Langkawi
Arriving in Langkawi after a couple of days relaxing aboard Silversea Silver Muse was probably the most challenging time. Did I want to get off the ship? No, not really…but I forced myself to take in the Island for the day.
A shuttle bus service provided transfers to Langkawi’s shopping district of Pantai Cenang and a range of organised tours were also available to passengers. You must do the Cable Car ride to Langkawi’s highest peak. The cable car links from the Oriental Village at Teluk Burau to the summit of Gunung Machinchang, which is also the location of the Langkawi Sky Bridge. You could also take in some Mangrove Kayaking or just lying by the beach on this beautiful island.
I had an adventurous spirit and hired a scooter for about $20USD and explored the island with some other more adventurous souls from the boat. There was plenty of hidden beaches, rainforest walks and even a cruise up the river to behold.
Key experiences to behold include
- Dayang Bunting Marble Geoforest Park;
- Telaga Tujuh Waterfall;
- Underwater World;
- Pulau Payar Marine Park.
It’s not everyone’s cup of tea to ride a scooter for a day, but if you’re active and healthy, why not enjoy some of the experiences that Langkawi island has to offer. You’ve got the security of knowing that the ship has a great medical centre onboard to patch you up if you skin your knee (I’d remind people to be careful about this activity as unless you’re an experienced rider, you may be placing yourself at unnecessary risk)
A 7.00 pm Silversea ship departure from Langkawi has you steaming back to Singapore. Tonight’s entertainment involved some dancing under the stars on the pool deck, and a massive array of chocolate desserts served by the pool.
Just as quickly as the cruise began, you steam back into Singapore the next morning with a thousand memories and an indelible impression of the excellent adventure and the awesome service that you have received over your journey.
Ok, you said it’s all good…but surely there was something that could be improved?
The Silversea onboard experience was truly first class, and honestly, there were not too many opportunities for improvement. Two small frustrating elements did bother me a little during the journey.
Firstly, as a frequent traveller, I like to stay connected to the internet. When you’re on a ship, telecommunications can be a bit challenging. The internet speeds weren’t high but were acceptable given the remoteness of the locations where the ship was sailing. The Silversea on-board team told me that they’re working towards improving this service so, I’ll be looking forward to my next adventure to see if I can get those pics uploaded a little more quickly.
Secondly, I couldn’t get out onto the bow of the ship and perform an impression of Jack & Rose from the Titanic. The bow is protected for safety reasons, and access is limited to crew only. Alas, I had to do it at the back of the ship.
Silversea’s Silver Muse has demonstrated an attention to detail in the onboard experience that surpassed my expectations many, many times. There’s a sense of professionalism amongst the crew that you seldom see in five-star hotels around the world. It was this professionalism that was the stand-out for me. From Andrew, my Butler, to the guys working beside the Bar on the pool deck, to the pastry chefs in the kitchen – thank you for exceeding my expectations and making my journey so pleasant.
Silversea experience first class
As Kipling put it “If you’re sick o’ wastin’ leather on these gritty pavin’-stones, an’ the blasted Melbourne (or London) drizzle wakes the fever in my bones” you best book yourself on one of the marvellous Silversea experiences up through the Andaman sea to Yangon.
The bones of Kipling’s poem stayed with me for the journey for I saw the mist on rice fields, I saw the bloomin idol made er mud, I saw the flying fishes play. I saw the wind in the palm-trees and heard the temple-bells they say.
Of course, I missed the old Moulmein Pagoda, lookin’ lazy at the sea and the Burma girl a-settin’, and I know she thinks o’ me… maybe next time I guess.
It’s not often that you can experience true silver service around the world these days. Silversea has captured a vision of service and imparted that to their staff on this magnificent cruise journey to Yangon.
Read more great travel stories at Life Begins at Magazine
Images Supplied by John NINNESS (c) 2019.
John travelled as a guest of Silversea Cruises.
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