Once considered the party girl of the wine family, rosé has been underestimated as a sophisticated, interesting and serious wine for all occasions, writes Andrew Graham.

It’s always bothered me how many people refuse to take rosé seriously. Given the growth of the category – rosé consumption is on the up and up in Australia – it seems like a blind spot that many people in the industry refuse to acknowledge.

The good news is that Australian rosé has never been in better shape. Pushed along by a whole new generation of savoury, textural, dry and delicious styles very much inspired by the wines of Provence in the south of France, Aussie pinks are more interesting than ever.

We just need to treat them like serious wines, not just a simple summery drink.

Sparkling beauty

Kreglinger Tasmania Brut Rose 2005
This is sourced from a single high density vineyard in Pipers Brook and is 100% Pinot Noir. Light salmon orange, this has a big hit of lees and less straight strawberry, making for plenty to get your head around. The palate is remarkable in the intensity of the acidity – it’s a thumping wine with extract and serious concentration through the finish. Huge intensity here – almost unheard of in an Aussie bubbles. It’s not quite as complex as some equivalent Champagne, but gee that power is something to be amazed at. Given the age and style, it’s very fairly priced too.

Score: 18.5/20
RRP: $65.
Would I buy it? Absolutely.

Hint of sweetness

Soumah Al Fiori Yarra Valley Rose 2015
Al Fiori means ‘amongst the flowers’ and this clever blend sees Shiraz and Pinot Noir juice fermented in barrel, with a little Savagnin added after. It’s quite dark for a rosé really (more rosato), the colour light ruby with a little pink. It smells of ripe red berry fruit too, with plenty of Shiraz berry characters alongside redcurrant and raspberry. Just a little sweetness to fill out the palate, with some nice red fruit hints. It’s quite long really, a clever ‘full’ rose, if maybe a little sweet. Still, I liked it muchly – interest and style.

Score: 17/20
RRP: $26.
Would I buy it? Two glass proposition.

Strawberries and cream

Schwarz Wine Co. Barossa Valley Rose 2015
A blend of Grenache and Mataro that was picked, crushed (but not destemmed) and then spent 24 hours on skins and stems before pressing, then a wild ferment in tank. Pale orange pink, though still has some colour, there is a really lovely strawberries and cream nose to this – the fruit sufficiently ripe. That said, it’s just a little angular, but that contrasts with enough lees richness and fruit to keep you coming back. Smart, sessionable rosé with really quite surprising depth. Good!
Score: 17.8/20
RRP: $22.
Would I buy it? Sure would.

Balanced drop

Longview Boat Shed Adelaide Hills Nebbiolo Rosato 2015
This is the Longview wine I’d most like to drink. Orange pink, the nose has some strawberry and cream, the palate with a gentle, strawberry and cherry lightness, cast in a form that is as much about acidity as it is fruit. It doesn’t feel sharp or awkward though – indeed this is the ripest under this line yet. Maybe a little extra residual? Regardless, it just works, producing a simple, pale, savoury, Provence-gets-some-Nebbiolo rosé with good balance. Yes!

Score: 17.5/20
RRP: $19.50.
Would I buy it? Off a wine list, I’d drink a bottle of this no problem.